![]() ![]() There’s an incredible set of photos by Martin Parr, in which the photographer headed up to the North of England and landed at Whitby’s biannual celebration of all things goth – named, perhaps unsurprisingly, the Whitby Goth Weekend. Underpinned by Williams’ proclivity for clean, contemporary cuts and dark glamour, while channelling the established codes of the house, perhaps for the first time ever during his tenure at the house the designer and Hubert’s vision aligned in near-perfect unison. But don’t think Williams has gone soft: the designer amped up the sex with the accoutrements, with slick, sensual stockings and pop-socks stretched over sharp pointed stilettos and coquettish mules.Īt the end of the show, out came a series of gothic cocktail and wedding gowns paired with romantic black lace veils and trimmed with strings of glittering crystals. Moving away from the hardcore, heavy-duty hardware we’re more accustomed to seeing him turn out, this season was unabashedly romantic, as he channelled his surprising love of gardening – a passion shared by Monsieur Hubert Givenchy himself – into a collection littered with appliquéd and embellished blooms.īalanced out with precision-cut tailoring, like oversized car coats with wide, cocoon-y shoulders and boxy blazers, out came a succession of wiggle dresses and pencil skirts which sandwiched flowers between their many layers, in a delicate palette of pale yellow and duck egg blue. Matthew Williams further cemented his recent winning streak this season as he leaned into a more sexy, sophisticated elegance than he’s previously been known for at Givenchy. A real standout for SS24, made even better when the live creatures were swapped out for fake ones at the post-show re-see. Ĭovering terrariums with layers of diaphanous tulle and lighting them up with LED strips, the designer’s glowing orbs were transformed into cocktail dresses and floated dreamlike through the darkened showspace – the garments, according to, to Takahashi, represented the flow of a fading memory, “a surreal world appearing and disappearing in the dark”.Įlsewhere throughout the offering, the surreal artworks of Neo Rauch were transformed into tapestry tailoring, Takahashi’s own paintings became tactile tufted tank tops and wiggle skirts, and pieces came studded with hand-sewn golden spiders. We’ll start this one off with a disclaimer: it probably wasn’t Jun Takahashi ’s best idea to use live butterflies as part of his SS24 Undercover show, with animal rights protestors criticising the move across social media in the hours following the show.īut the collection was undeniably one of the most magical and creative of the whole season – particularly when so many designers are opting for functionality and commerciality over anything particularly avant-garde right now. ![]() Is the clean girl era coming to an end? Right now, it’s Saint Laurent’s world and we’re just living in it, so yes, it looks like it. Perhaps best of all, though, was the absolutely trowelled-on 80s-style make-up, with the models’ cheeks carved out via extreme, powdery contouring, complexions pumped up with smeared-on flashes of rouge, and clumpy eyelashes all on the agenda. Earlobes swung with huge gold doorknocker earrings that grazed the collarbone, while necks and wrists were stacked with glittering bangles and chains. Stripping off those mega power-shouldered blazers from AW23, models stepped out in safari-style jumpsuits, sheer chiffon shirts peppered with pockets, slinky racer-back silk slips, slouchy wide-leg trouser, and hefty trenches with tightly nipped-in waists, all in a palette of earthy, almost dusty tones: think rich burgundy, deep sand, and sleek, chic, ivory. In an uber-luxe new space flanked by big marble columns and gold YSL sculptures – but still backdropped as always by the golden glow of the Eiffel Tower – guests including Zoe Kravitz, Gabbriette, Steve Lacy, and Saint Laurent campaign star Austin Butler assembled on the front row to take in exactly what Anthony Vaccarello had been working on the last six months: and what a collection it was. Saint Laurent’s hot as hell boss bitches were back this season, only this time around, they’d stepped out of the boardroom – and off their employees’ necks – and taken flight to the desert for SS24. ![]()
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